Wednesday, June 17, 2009



I hear the adhan from this mosque near my house several times a day. Some people complain and think its too loud, but I think its kind of soothing to listen to while I wash my clothes in a bucket at night. I think we're supposed to have laundry service included in our caretaker's fees, but it takes forever and come back smelling weirdly. So for now, I have my nightly routine of washing the dust and dirt of the day off, and washing my clothes in the bathroom. And to think a month ago I was complaining that the laundromat next to our house had closed!


I won't continually nostaligize Uganda, but hearing the adhan also reminds me of the radio piece I worked on last year with Mikkel. (See the post here.)

Monday, June 15, 2009

About 1/3 of all malaria cases in Tamil Nadu occur in Chennai, so while I’d rather not take malaria prophylaxis for 6 months, it really does seem necessary. I took Lariam for my first four months I lived in Uganda and then quit since the risk of malaria in Kampala was lower, and I felt awful. I couldn't be sure that the blue moods, headaches and eventually facial numbness was because of the lariam (or if it was partly due to uprooting myself and moving to another continent far from my loved ones), but I had easy access to treatment so I thought I'd be alright without the prophylaxis.

This time around, I had few affordable choices but to take Lariam, so I’m hoping that things go better than in 2007. So far, I’m just having unbelievably vivid (but still pleasant) dreams. Here’s hoping they stay happy, bright and beautiful and that the numbness stays away!

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Things I’m noticing around town:

Most of the houses in my neighborhood have chalk drawings of various designs fresh on the doorstep each morning. It seems to be some sort of Hindu blessing.


Ladies set up tables on the street with freshly plucked, unbloomed flowers in heaps in front of them. They weave them together into strings, which women put in their hair. The jasmine strands smell amazing!

The many uses of a bicycle frame – bike powered goods cart, hand pedaled bikes for people without use of their legs, regular transportation (way too dangerous and daring for me!) for a few people, soda carts and so on.

Rush hour is absurdly hectic. After taking a bus to work that was more crowded than this one, I think I'll probably be taking the more comfortable but less economical autos from now on.

School girls in uniform in the foreground

Tons of varieties of mangoes and bananas, limes both sweet and sour, plums smaller than a ping pong ball, pomegranates, and football-esque watermelons. What is a soppatta? Or muskmelon?

Face creams and beauty products of many varieties for men and women that claim to lighten your skin. Does anyone really think that commercials and ads selling “white beauty” is ok? Some of the countries biggest movies stars, like Shah Rukh Khan, are selling this stuff!

The Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu State is apparently a former movie star - hence the sunglasses in all photos?


Weird safety advisories using Mr. Potato head to convince you to not drink and drive (I have yet to figure out where I can get a drink in this town!), not to speed so that you "live to 100", make sure your home has a fire escape, etc.

I've had decent coffee here, but the cups are far too small! These (from my office) are about the size of a Dixie cup!

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Today I met my third housemate, Ciai, a Japanese woman studying public health at Cornell. With John and Zarasp, I went down to the Theosophical Society, a sort of religious center founded in the late 1800s by an American Civil War veteran, with a Russian psychic, among others. Four of us crammed into an autorickshaw and made our way to the grounds, only to find when we arrived noon that the facility was closed to visitors between 10am and 2 pm. To bide our time, we walked down to Elliott’s beach. The scenery was beautiful, but the sand was blistering hot and there was little shade. The beaches here are more popular in the evening, when the sands have cooled and the sea breeze makes the beach feel more comfortable than the rest of this hot city.


We had lunch down around the beach shore. I haven’t been eating much, with the jet lag and adjusting to the heat, so I just had a bowl of “curd rice” - rice with yogurt, green chilies, and mint – and a glass of sweet lime juice. We did an little window shopping around, and then made our way back over to the Theosophical Society. The grounds were very park like, and the dry dust smelled like Southern California. Aside from the library filled with books of interest to scholars of different religious movements, one of the main attractions of the grounds is the world’s second largest Banyan tree. The Banyan has aerial roots, which makes this single tree appear to be a forest of trees.

After closing time, we headed down the road to find another autorickshaw willing to take the four of us. Along the way, I spotted this vendor and the bright golden color of the corn. They cover it with lime juice and chili – which makes the spices the best part of this maize-like corn. Although its called “American corn”, its not very juicy, and not very sweet.

Once we got back home, I decided to investigate the kitchen, to see what kind of tools we have available and what I might want to pick up to start cooking. In the bottom drawer, I found a huge lizard working to keep the roaches in check. Made me feel like I was bag in Uganda again. I’d missed the house lizards!

For dinner, the four of headed to a Japanese restaurant up on the of main roads. (I have yet to learn the names of any of the roads other than mine, and our cross streets, but hopefully tomorrow I will buy a map book.) We shared some Japanese pickles and a fish appetizer, and John wowed us with his knowledge of Japanese. Weirdly, they’d left a Japanese magazine on the table. Perhaps they expect people to have boring dinner companions? My udon was pretty good, but I’m hoping that another restaurant in the city might have more interesting sounding sushi options. I don’t know that flounder and grouper are really going to do it for me!

We caught a bus home instead of a rickshaw, which is a much cheaper option if you know which one to get one. Only 3 rupees per person! The bus was full of women on their way home, and the scent of the jasmine flowed through the air as the bus picked up speed, carrying the scent off the flowers in the hair. Heavenly....

Apparently the cold soba noodle wasn’t enough for Ciai, so we stopped at a food stand to get her a dosa, a bread-like pancake with sauce. I was too full to have one myself, but the bit I tried was tasty like sourdough bread, so I’m sure that I will be back! We bought bananas and papayas from a street vendor, and then made our way home. John had bought a carton of mango ice cream, so we all enjoyed a bowl and Ciai, Zarasp and I hung out in the living room talking until the power went out. Now I’m really wishing that I’d had the energy before I left NYC to climb up into the closet to retrieve my headlamp from inside our tent, because now I’m without and writing this in the dark in my bedroom which is rapidly heating up without AC or a fan! I guess that means that its bedtime.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Welcome to Chennai


Gnome from home, and a new guy I found in my room

I arrived in Chennai after about 24 hours of travel at 1am. It was so hot outside that I began dripping sweat as soon as I stepped outside with my luggage. I looked up and down the line for my taxi, but the only promising one was holding a sign for "Gaprielle" from IFMR. I waited a while and decided to try to figure out if I was in fact Gaprielle. (I figured that I probably was, but had no idea what IFMR was, and would feel really bad stranding somone else at the airport). I spent who knows how much money on a phone call to Kody to figure out which company was supposed to be picking me, and we were off to my new digs.

Arriving at my apartment, I realized that I wasn't sure which unit I was supposed to be in. Eventually we figured it was the ground floor, and one of my new roommates, John, answered the door. Unfortunately, all the bedrooms were locked so we had to call the caretaker over from another property to let me in. An hour later I was all checked in and finally got to sleep. So the adventure begins!

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Resurrecting the blog

Tomorrow I leave for six months in Chennai, so I'm resurrecting the blog to share some photos with my friends and family. I'm not quite ready to go again, having returned from Uganda less than a year ago, but it should be an incredible experience. I'll upload some photos once I arrive... wish me luck!

Sunday, June 7, 2009

After a fantastic apartment-crawl going away party at our house in Brooklyn (some pics here; thanks Shayla!), Kody and I got up early to make the most of a beautiful Brooklyn day. We hopped on our bikes and took the greenway path down to Coney Island. I’m a little sad that so many of the storefronts are closed (yet to be redeveloped by real estate company Thor Equities), but Coney Island still has its good old-fashioned seediness. Who has ever played shoot-the-freak? It was the day of the Puerto Rican Day parade, and people were celebrating with dancing on the boardwalk, and boomboxes on the beach. We also took in some of the other sites: old Russian guys who spend all their days tanning (and have that beautiful leather glow), a goth trio that seemed out of place at the beach (especially “Goth Igor”), people hiding their beer bottles in plastic bags as they drank under the sun, and families playing at the edge of the water. Kody went down and put his head in while I napped. It was only when we took a stroll down the beach that we discovered that the beach was closed because of a sewage spill. Ewwwwwwww. Why aren’t the lazy lifeguards keeping people away from the water?

We took the water route to head home, riding under the Verrezano Bridge and along the edge the Brooklyn waterfront. It was my first time and I was kicking myself that I’ll have to wait another whole year to enjoy the path again! Once we made it home, K and I attempted to make sushi rolls. I think they didn’t come out too bad for my first time, although they’re not supposed to be three inches across, right?

My last weekend in Brooklyn was perfect. Thank you Kody and friends!

Monday, August 18, 2008

Blog Sabbatical

As Kody and I drove to the airport on the 3rd, I tried not to cry. Inside, the airport was mayhem. I'd never seen it that crazy and I was once again thankful for all of those business trips back to the US that earned me a gold card in about 9 months. We wizzed through (compared to the others, very irritable passengers) and I got ready to say goodbye for now to my home since last April.

I've been back in the US nearly two weeks now, and still can't quite grasp that NY is home again. My blog was intended to give my family and friends a glimpse of my life, being so far away. Now that I'm back, its time to return to more regular forms of communication - like phone calls and emails that I've been terrible about making. Kampala friends, I hope that we'll stay in touch. You made my first experience living abroad a fantastic one. We miss you already!

I won't post to gablam until my overseas practicum for school (one year from now), but do upload photos on flickr here from time to time.

A year and a half in Uganda

Please do keep in touch and thanks for reading!

Saturday, August 2, 2008

There's only three hours left until I can check in for my flight online. I'm in serious denial. There's nothing left in the house, and we're heading out soon for our last night out in Kampala, but it hasn't really sunk in yet that we're going. Maybe tomorrow?

Friday, August 1, 2008

We're having a big last weekend here in Kampala. Last minute art shopping took us to the Makerere University Art School to check out a barkcloth exhibit. No buys there, but Kody did pick up this cool guinea fowl shirt in a market on the way home. Check out the billboard above his head, which Kody worked on for Moringa Ogilvy.

After lunch, we headed over to the Lugogo Cricket Oval for the Wycef Jean concert. Near the end of the show, Wyclef ended up in a cherry picker right behind us, which Kody somehow ended up being on. Always at the center of the party!